SARONG MATEROS SOGAN BOH GUNUNGAN

Ibu Istikomah
Born Batang, Indonesia, 1971

SARONG MATEROS SUGEN
2010
100% cotton, synthetic dyes
Hand-drawn wax resist on machine-woven cotton
210 x 114cm

Rich in symbolism, this Materos batik is a meditation on the abundance that comes from fostering close relationships with those around us.

This is a sarong hip-wrapper is called Materos Sogan Boh Gunungan. It is divided into a main panel, referred to as the badan or body of the cloth, and a decorative panel at one end known as the kepala (head).

Materos refers to the filling motif inside the main panel, which is an intricate curl-like design. It is a design that requires painstaking patience and can only be successfully produced by an experienced artist. The interconnected vine is said to symbolise the prosperity that comes from strong kinship ties and relationships with those around us. For this reason it is considered an appropriate gift to convey blessings to a newly married couple.

The decorative kepala/sorot panel, adopts the untu walang “cricket’s teeth” motif, used to ward off evil or bad-luck. The untu walang design is about inner strength and charisma - it represents the surprising powers and abilities that can be found in modest and unassuming characters (the grasshopper’s incredibly powerful teeth). The panel also features pelaraan (stylised coconut palms), which are used as decorations for weddings and other cultural ceremonies and symbolise blessings and protection. The side panels to the sorot are decorated with jasmine flowers.

The border around the edges of the cloth is in the gunungan (mountain) design. Located along the Pacific Ring of Fire, in Java the volcanic mountain is considered the centre of life ― a symbol of vitality, the universe and all its wonders.

Istikomah worked on this batik over a 12-month period applying wax to the entire cloth three times. She enjoys making materos batik because the design is intricately detailed yet look impressive from afar. 

Ibu Istikomah (Ibu Itama)

Born and raised in Batang, on the north coast of Central Java, Ibu Istikomah is an accomplished batik artist and batik trader. She makes batik nyambi (part-time) when she is not busy selling chicken, caring for children, running the household, cooking, shopping at the markets.